Naples Pizza Party, Day 4

Monday, Day 4 – Herculaneum and Party over.

Originally the plan was to all take a train to either Pompeii or Herculaneum and then lunch nearby – preferably pizza in keeping with Sharon’s birthday theme. We decided on Herculaneum because a few of us had already been to Pompeii. Before heading to the train station in the mini van the concierge had called for us, Aurel suggested Anna ask our driver what he would charge to actually take us to Herculaneum. He said 70 euros or 10 euros each. The driver then offered to wait while we toured the ruins and then take us to lunch in Sorrento. Anna negotiated 210 euros total  - 30 euros each.

Herculaneum is amazing in ways very different from what I remembered of Pompeii. The area of ruins is smaller and more compact. Unlike Pompeii, Herculaneum was a sea side resort, not a commercial city. Smaller villas – the equivalent of beach cottages. There are lots of tall walls still standing with charcoaled door lintels remaining from the Vesuvius eruption of 79 AD. Terrific mosaic floors and vivid red walls that are as fresh as yesterday. It had rained that morning and the grass and mosses were an amazing green. The scent of blooming mimosa, oranges and lemons lingered in the air. Spring comes earlier in Naples and the colors, scents and seaside setting reminded me of Selunite’s Greek ruins in Sicily. The recurring Neapolitan theme of Life and Death was heavy in the air.

We drove to Sorrento in a downpour. Eight years ago I traveled from Naples to Sorrento by train – a journey through lots of dreary towns. This time we drove along the winding coast - a route that was a mini and less scary version of the Amalfi Coast drive. We arrived in Sorrento around 3:30 and of course, everything was closed. Monday afternoon in the off-season. We drove around a bit and then found a small pizzeria/ristorante open just on the town’s central piazza. It looked dreadful and uninviting and most likely would have been awful anywhere else, but unlikely places in Italy often reward you with gastronomic pleasures.

Marguerita Pizza as a starter – the brick oven was prominently placed in the front of the restaurant. I had pasta fagiole ( a stew of small tubes of pasta with cranberry beans and plump little mussels.) Vigdis and Anna shared a serving of the pasta fagiole and a serving of cod roasted in olive oil and white wine. Erik and Aurel both had home-made spaghetti with frutti di mare and Sharon ordered gamberoni grillata. We drank a very young (2012) fresh and slightly effervescent white Lacryma Cristi which definitely tasted of the terroir of Vesuvius.

Erik, Vigdis, Me, Aurel, Anna, Sylvie and Sharon

 

Sharon, Forever Young 

 



Bay of Sorrento at Sunset

On the way back to Naples we stopped at a belvdere to take photos and to admire the twinkling lights of the Sorrento harbor in twilight. Back to the hotel for a little rest before our final pizza at Gino Sobello, the pizzeria the concierge had recommended our first day in Naples. We ordered three different pizzas: classic Marguerita (with Sharon’s added basil,) pizza with fresh artichokes and one with funghi (porcini mushrooms.) The crust was slightly tastier and a bit more charred than the pizza from Ciro e Mergellina. Both serve such superb pizza but everyone declared Gino Sobello the best. Who am I to argue?



The next morning Sharon and I accompanied Sylvia to one of Naples' market streets for a little food shopping. Then, everyone but Sharon and I dispersed for planes and trains home. She would leave later in the day so we managed our own last minute shopping – for ex voto's – the silver replicas of various body parts that are left in churches after a prayer for healing is answered. Sharon found two silver ex voto displaying eyes. She decided it would be great fun to have one mounted on a silver chain to wear when she next visits her ophthalmologist. She claims he has a great sense of humor and will "get it."

The next morning I went back to the market street, so I could fly home with fresh pastry for my husband - Sfogliatelli, his favorite.